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every week. pixia-club.info Sorting Tray. I have a lot of bins filled with tom is made from 34" ply- screws, nuts, bolts, and wood with a wide, shallow. hear from readers is that they like the proportions and design of the projects in Woodsmith. They're projects that would fit comfortably in or around their homes. Woodsmith andShapNotes magazines. (SlwpNotes is our companion publi- cation.) This new index providesa com- plete reference to allthe woodworking.

Woodsmith Pdf S

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Publikation Title Woodsmith. 2. Publication No: Filing Dete October 3 , 4. wie Frequency. Biomonthly S. No. of issues published arously. 6 (sin). WOODSMITH SHOP Season All episodes PDF DOWNLOAD Woodworking Tips, Carpentry, . Staining interior woodwork is a process of trial and error. Woodsmilh® is a registered trademark of August Home Publishing. Postmaster : Send change of address to Woodsmith, Box ,. Boone, IA ·

After laying out Rout Edges. To complete the top and bot-plate, lay out the curve along the front the profile upper drawing drill starter tom panels, rout a Roman ogee profileof each divider and cut it to shape. And because you can be sure that the profile ofmost interesting part of this project the edges of the staves are beveled both doors is consistent. The trickiest partwho makes barrels. And coopered doors, I decided to glue up one wide of making the doors is probablydoors get their name from the fact blank and cut the doors apart after gluing up the blank.

Because of the curved shape of the doors, clamp-Shop Tip: StaveClampingJig ing them up is a challenge.

So I made a simple jig see box at left. Each used to force them together whileform has a curve cut along 5 24 the glue dries.

Woodsmith Magazine 223 February March 2016_downmagaz.com.pdf

See next pageapply the necessary clamp- for more on how this is done. Fine tune the bevel Wastefine tune the angle just a bit. The angle on the staves until they fit Door blankgoal is for the staves to fit together together without any visible gaps.

I found it helpful to number the 2staves after fitting them.

Curved-front wall Cabinet - Woodsmith Shop

Waste After gluing the staves together inthe jig see previous page , you can Blockbegin smoothing out the curve on planethe front of the blank. After laying out the radi- Sledblock plane Fig.

Cut to Length. A simple plywood cut-offcan be used for the final smoothing. I taped a coupleof long, beveled strips of wood to Cut in Half. To create the two doors, cut the blank Cut to Width. With your saw blademy table saw to help support the in half down the center joint line. Thefinal step is to cut the mortises for! Take a look at Fig. Wedge Cut Hinge Mortises. To cut the mortises strip for the hinges, a tall auxiliary fence with a spacer is attached to the miter gauge.

Rout Coves. A decorative cove is routed along the inside edge of each door to match the front molding of the case. But I used a differ- ent method here. After the drawer is glued the drawer front is cut out of a thick tom is held in a groove cut in the up, you can add the drawer guides. Before cutting drawer sides and drawer front. But Apart from their main function of the drawer front to shape, however, since the bottom is glued up out of guiding the drawer, the guides I cut all the drawer joinery.

The front of the drawer changes in humidity. And dovetail joints. Flip each stave endfor-end and make a bevel cut on the opposite edge. I made a couple passes with a core box bit to create these Figures 1 and 2.

Rip the staves free from the blanks. The wide blanks let me get three staves from each section. Rip fence Push block Rip Wide Blanks. Use the rip fence as a guide to cut the kerf on the lower. I made these rip cuts at the table saw.

I found it best to do this at the router table and table saw before the staves were glued together. The How-To box at right shows the rest of the work to be done on the staves. Use the rip fence to sneak up on the final width of a test piece.

By making the stave blanks extra long. I also cut one extra stave blank to use for test pieces later on. The rest of the material can be removed at the table saw Figure 3. I then trimmed the stave blanks to final length. I used wide blanks 6" and cut them a little long measurement shown in Figure 1 on previous page. With the blade angle set. As you can see in the drawings at right. Rip one edge on the rest of the blanks. You can rip the staves free from the blanks Figure 2.

A pass through the table saw makes quick work of this cut Figure 1. Cut the mounting disc to rough size at the band saw. Locate the center of the mounting disc blank with intersecting lines. The How-To box below shows the process for making the mounting disc and attaching it to the faceplate. Drill the counterbore and center hole at the drill press. After assembling the canister. This disc attaches to the lathe faceplate and allows you to shape the plywood bottom. Cut to outside of layout line.

Start by finding the center of a How-To: Drill counterbore first Draw diagonal layout lines to find center. Bottom is made from! This same mounting disc can be used to make all of the canisters. Before making the bottom. Bottom is turned to final size at lathe Staves are flush at top and bottom when assembled Stave kerf holds bottom tongue B!

I used Baltic birch for its void-free quality. Attach the mounting disc to the lathe faceplate with screws. Mounting disc Faceplate. To accommodate a carriage bolt. A straightedge helps keep the ends aligned. The edge of the bottom has a rabbet formed around its perimeter. Use masking tape as the initial clamp.

If the bottom is too small. Be sure to clean up any glue squeezeout on the inside. I added a couple hose clamps using very light pressure Figure 6. A parting tool works well to cut the rabbet and form the narrow tongue on the edge of the bottom. Put the bottom back on the lathe and turn just the tongue down until the gaps disappear.

With washers acting as spacers. After locating the center and cutting to rough size. I then installed the assembly on the lathe Figure 4. I started by laying out a couple strips of masking tape sticky side up and placing the staves edge-to-edge across the strips of tape. Check the fit often. This begins by attaching the bottom blank to the mounting disc Figure 2.

Use a squarenosed scraper to turn the bottom round. After that. Final Assembly. Leave it slightly oversized for now. After adding glue to the beveled edges and in the kerfs. Getting the bottom to the perfect size takes some careful turning and a little patience. If you left the diameter of the bottom a little big.

A couple of hose clamps provide additional pressure. Now switch to a parting tool to cut the rabbet that forms the tongue on the edge of the bottom Figure 4. To assemble the staves. Use a squarenosed scraper to turn the bottom blank perfectly round. If the bottom is too big. You can sneak up on the final diameter after the rabbet is cut. Check the thickness of the tongue often.

Trying to start at too high of a speed could result in damage to the workpiece. Just a couple of turning rules to note when working with a staved-cylinder on the lathe: Using a wing nut and washer. I began by drawing a pencil line around the outside to mark where the bottom edge of the concave depression begins.

To make this mark. The bottom edge gets rounded over at the router table. This includes forming the neck and rim of the canister on the lathe and sizing the opening for a purchased cork stopper to fit in place.

Inside taper matches taper of cork stopper Inside edge softened with sandpaper Top rim roundover is formed on the lathe with sandpaper a. And second. Forming the opening of the canister is delicate work. But there are just a few more details to take care of. As shown in Figure 1 on the next page. Start by attaching the canister to the mounting disc you made How-To: This will lock the container in place as the profile is formed around the mouth of the cylinder.

Since I wanted to retain the crisp edges on the lower portion of the canister. This profile matches the shape of the inside of the canister.

Slight taper here Form to fit cork stopper taper Round-nose scraper Use scrapers to form inside taper First Turn. Finish Sanding. Moving on to the lip. The cork is held in place with a little glue. And before removing the canister from the lathe.

I decided to use a thin piece of cork to match the lid. I was able to use that to create a posterboard template. I also took some time to do all of the finish sanding on the areas I just shaped. To see how I finished my canister set. Use a scraper and light pressure to form the lip and inner taper. I used a combination of scrapers and sandpaper to bring this to shape.

Place the posterboard pattern on the cork sheet and use a sharp utility knife to cut it to shape. Even with a light touch.

At this point. Since the plywood bottom has a hole in it from being attached to the mounting disc. When shaping the inside edge of the canister. One 12" x 12" utensil holder. A trip to the router table makes quick work rounding over the bottom edge. Rout roundover on each face of cylinder Fence a.

Check the fit of the cork stopper often. With the opening sized to accommodate the cork stopper. Rub a Pattern. But the challenge was cutting it to fit exactly between the staves. I chose to round this edge over at the router table. Remove material slowly and check the fit of the stopper often. After completing the rubbing. Then I used the template as a guide on the cork sheet and cut it out with a sharp utility knife. Figure 4. Start by forming the concave profile on the upper edge with a round-nose scraper.

Take very light cutting passes to avoid chipout near your layout line. Use a piece of paper and a pencil to make a rubbing of the bottom of the canister. The veneer press you see here more than adequately serves the purpose.

Adding veneer to a project is a great way to create an eye-catching look without breaking the bank. All in all. The chessboard on page 30 is one example. The double-layer MDF platens are dead flat and smooth.

There are two big advantages to its design: And one of the most challenging aspects of using veneer is applying consistent pressure evenly across the surface as you glue it in place. A shop-made knob and threaded rod assemblies in combination with thick hardwood cauls create plenty of clamping pressure.

Shop Project Heavy-duty Veneer Press Gluing veneer demands clamping pressure distributed across a wide surface. This means the resulting panel will be smooth with a consistent glue line.

After gluing up the platens and trimming them to size. You can make the platens any size. To make the second layer. For lack of any other method of clamping. The counterbores on the inside face of each platen hold springs that help separate the platens.

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Glue oversized blank to first layer NOTE: Lightly sand edges a. The counterbores hold the springs that separate the platens. Using the centerpoint left from drilling the counterbore as a guide. The drawings above and in the box below show where to locate and how to drill the holes.

I glued up both platens and stacked them together on a flat surface with waxed paper between them before clamping them with a series of clamps. This allows a little wiggle room for positioning it on the first layer when the glue and clamps are applied. To make each of the platens. Through Holes. MDF is flat.

I started by drilling the counterbores with a Forstner bit. Once the glue dries. To provide clearance for the threaded rod used to provide clamping pressure between the platens. Your next step is to lay out a series of counterbored holes along two edges of each platen. Creating a crown on the cauls helps distribute clamping pressure to the center of the platens. Then simply cut the legs to shape and sand them smooth before gluing them to the bottom cauls.

I rounded over the ends at the router table. I added four hardwood feet. The counterbores are sized so that the hex nuts have to be pressed into place to secure them. Drill 1! But machining perfectly matched crowns would be a difficult proposition. Springs 10 ft. Installing the hex nuts into the counterbores on the bottom cauls comes next photo below. You want them all to be consistent.

The maple cauls you see above are up to the task of applying consistent clamping pressure. Just make sure the through holes align with those in the cauls to allow free movement of the rod. To elevate the press and provide clearance for the threaded rod. The details for making the feet are shown above.

After the counterbores are drilled. The eight cauls are identical in size and shape. These holes allow the cauls to move freely along the threaded rod. From there. For extra security. Each assembly starts with a threaded Materials. But for really torquing down. Switch out the drill bit to enlarge the center hole for a press fit over the coupling nuts. Putting everything together goes quickly. Thread the rod assemblies through until they engage the nuts in the bottom cauls.

The How-To box below shows how to create the final shape of the handwheels at the drill press. The handwheels make it easy to quickly tighten the cauls to bring the platens together.

Arrange the bottom cauls Coupling nut b. The coupling nut is pinned to the threaded rod drawings at right. A few solid taps on the bottom end of the threaded rod will seat the handwheel midway onto the length of the coupling nut. Inside Diameter. Insert the springs then add the top platen and cauls. Before assembling the veneer press. Use a hole saw or wing cutter to create the outside diameter of the handwheel.

This helps prevent glue from sticking. After you peen them into the holes you drilled through the coupling nut and threaded rod. Handwheels made from two layers of! The lower right photo shows how a drill press vise securely holds the assembly for drilling. The first order of business is to cut the threaded rods to final length. Fitting the coupling nut into the handwheel just requires a few taps with a mallet.

I like to file off the sharp edges after cutting. Installing the Handwheel. To do this. Each handwheel is a press-fit over the coupling nut. On the woodworking side. Game on. Magnetic catches hold the lids closed for travel. The playing surface is actually a pair of lids that flip Materials. Turn to page 67 for sources.

This handsome board features a veneered playing surface that flips up for storage below. The unique feature of this chessboard is its go-anywhere design.

One 24" x 24" sheet of! This chessboard gives you the best of both worlds — a few interesting up to reveal a storage area for the game pieces. Outside of spending time in the shop. Then apply long strips of veneer tape along each seam. I used holly and bloodwood.

The squares are glued to a framed plywood panel to create each lid. After trimming a straight edge on the veneer sheet. Short pieces of veneer tape across the joints pull the strips together.

Long pieces seal the deal. From here. Gather up four strips. From this face. Instead of working with small squares. The upper right drawings give you the overall idea of how it works.

Long veneer strips arecut with the grain to width and length b. Figure 3 shows how to do it. It looks messy. By making the lids first.

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On the top face. As the tape dries. Crosscut the strips and flip every other strip. On the bottom face. To avoid tearing the grain. This tape is water activated. Choose one of the faces of each set of strips as the bottom glue face. Repeat the taping process to complete the lid sheets. If you flip every other strip end for end. This is shown in Figure 1. Short pieces of tape run across the joint. For this chessboard. The lids serve as the playing surface.

Cutting and assembling 64 small squares may sound intimidating. Alternating long strips are taped together How-To: The squares are made from alternating pieces of veneer. A utility knife with a fresh blade and a straightedge are the only tools you need. Like before. The molding does two things. Ease edges of lids after assembly NOTE: Veneers applied to lid panels with cold-press veneer glue a. On an extra-wide blank. It increases stiffness around the edge of the lid.

This larger piece is safer and easier to handle.

B Rabbet sized to thickness of! Moldings are made from! Miter the strips to create frames that match the size of the checkerboard perimeter. The next steps involve building a rigid frame to support the veneer. The key to getting a good bond and flat surface lies in applying consistent clamping pressure. You can find where to purchase it in Sources on page Miter the Ends. If you add veneer to one face of a piece of plywood.

Woodsmith Magazine 223 February March 2016_downmagaz.com.pdf

The drawing above shows the other elements of the lids. The reason has to do with wood movement. Install a combination blade. With the backer veneer glued to the lid panel blank. I mentioned earlier that the molding has a rabbet sized to accept the panel. The result is a flat.

The checkerboard overlays a plywood panel resting in a rabbeted frame of hardwood molding. Swap out the dado blade for a combination blade and cut the molding pieces to final width from the blank. The panel is cut to size a little later on. For now.

The solution is to glue a layer of veneer to the opposite face to keep the panel balanced. Lid panels are!

Frame Strips. Another great option is to use the veneer press shown on page The bottom face has an additional layer of veneer added to it. Head over to the router table How-To: Your next obstacle is removing the veneer tape. I started by scraping and sanding away glue squeezeout on the ends and edges of each lid.

You could also slip this form into the veneer press I talked about earlier. Connecting the sander to a shop vacuum keeps sanding dust from discoloring the light squares. When you pull the lid out. I made a form for addtional support to apply the veneer. Masking tape still plays a role in the assembly. Before gluing the veneer in place.

Sandwich the lid between the MDF panels and add clamps around the edge to ensure a solid. Peel away as much as possible. The key here is that the perimeter of the frame matches the length and width of the checkerboard veneer. Take care to keep the assembly flat and square. A foam brush helps to apply an even layer of glue across the top of the lid assembly.

Remove Veneer Tape. A card scraper does a good job of removing any remaining tape and adhesive. A damp sponge softens the veneer tape. Surface of lid panel and moldings should be flush before spreading glue Apply Glue. Then brush glue onto the lid frame assembly. Set the veneer sheet in place and use strips of masking tape to keep it from sliding around. A plywood panel fits in the recess under the lid to apply even pressure.

The joints between the squares may feel a little uneven. Since the veneer and lid are at their final size. As daunting as it seems. A power sander and fine-grit paper levels the veneer joints and leaves a glass-smooth surface. Since the bottom of the lid is recessed. You can follow along in the box at right as I step through the process. A sharp card scraper handles any gummy residue. Peel away the masking tape and remove any glue squeezeout to clean up the edges of the lid.

F Completing the lids means the most intensive work is behind you. Smooth the edges to blend into the radius. Cut away most of the waste at the band saw. I chose box joints mostly for strength. Inside there are several dividers that create the storage trays for the game pieces. A Forstner bit forms a smooth radius for the bottom of the finger pull recess in the sides. I mentioned that the lids drive the size of the box.

Your cruise to the finish line involves making a simple box along with a few details. Cut a rabbet around the bottom panel so the resulting tongue just fits into the groove.

On page While I included the dimensions for my box. Bottom is! Create a Tongue. Dividers are! The box is assembled with box joints. The lids should meet in the center. Apply a piece of double-sided tape to the hinge plate to hold it to the lid. The details on how to do this are shown in Figure 1 at right. A Forstner bit creates a flat-bottom hole to install a magnet washer to help hold the lids closed. Gently open the lid and mark the screw locations in the bottom face of the lid.

It adds a nice look and cushions the pieces inside. Then drill holes for the hinges on the inside faces of opposite sides. Before you can glue up the box. Now all you need to do is to find a worthy adversary and set up for a match. A pin on each hinge fits into a cup installed in the case sides.

After cutting the bottom to size. Tape spacers to the box to create an even gap around the lids as you set the lids in place. The lower left and middle drawings on the previous page highlight how this is done.

Inside edges of lids rest on center divider Spacers as Guides. I used double-sided tape to temporarily hold the lid in place in order to mark the location of the screw holes.! Inside the box. With the catches in place.

Before doing that. You need to cut a groove for the box bottom. Another detail to add is the finger pull recess cut into these same sides. You need to install a pair of magnet washers in each lid to engage the catches. Pivot hinges provide a low-profile look. W Felt! The finishing touch is to line the inside with adhesive-backed felt.

Figures 2. A series of filing cabinets rolls on metal tracks. All you need is about two to three feet of space between the cabinets to be able to reach in and grab an item stored along the side. From the front. Though the cabinets are large. Shop Project Rolling Storage Lockers Pack a lot of storage into a small space with these cabinets on wheels.

The large cabinets you see here allow you to duplicate this storage efficiency in your garage or shop. The doors on the front enclose an easily accessible storage area fitted with adjustable shelves or pegboard. This system takes up less floor space yet contains a vast amount of storage. Now, place the first saw kerf you cut over the key, then make a pass over the blade. This defines the end of the second notch. Repeat the process, stepping the blank along the edge. Rotate the blank once again to cut kerfs along the opposite edge.

Be sure to make these cuts on all of the log blanks before moving on. The box at right illustrates cutting the opposite end of the notches. For this, you can make a new fence thats a mirror image of the first one. Set your starting point from the blade, then complete all of the cuts along the blank, as in Figure 3. With the edges of the notches defined, all thats left to do is remove the waste in between.Rails 2 4 4 2 1 Pgbd.

The table butts against the drill press fence and is clamped in place. If the pins protrude too far. Single copy: To add strength and rigidity for storing heavier items. You can sneak up on the final diameter after the rabbet is cut. To submit your tip or technique. Rip the staves free from the blanks. Pins Too Tight.

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